Jacques Guerlain

Jacques Edouard Guerlain was a French perfumer, born on 7 October 1874 and died on 2 May 1963. He was the third and most famous perfumer of the Guerlain family and is considered one of the most prolific and influential perfumers of the 20th century. Guerlain composed over eighty perfumes and estimates suggest that he may have composed around four hundred fragrances.

Jacques Guerlain was born in 1874 in Colombes, France, the second child of Gabriel and Clarisse Guerlain. He was educated in England and later in Paris at the École Monge, where he studied a variety of subjects including history, English, German, Greek and Latin. His childless uncle, Aimé Guerlain, trained Jacques as his apprentice and successor from the age of sixteen. Jacques created his first perfume, Ambre, in 1890 and later interned in Charles Friedel's organic chemistry laboratory at the University of Paris before officially joining the family business in 1894.

Jacques experimented extensively with both cosmetics and fragrances, perfecting a method of perfuming ink while publishing on various essential oils with Justin Dupont. He composed his earliest works, such as Le Jardin de Mon Curé in 1895, and assumed joint ownership of his family's company with his brother Pierre and father in 1897. Jacques and Pierre traded the responsibilities of manager and head perfumer for two years, until Jacques became the latter in 1899. Jacques composed several perfumes during this time, including Tsao Ko in 1898, his first perfume to reference the Orient, a dominant theme in his oeuvre.

In 1905, Jacques married Andrée Bouffet. Their first child, Jean-Jacques, was born the following year, and Jacques completed Après l'Ondée, his first major commercial success. Translated as "After the Rain," the perfume was described as "melancholic" by La Liberté and marked Guerlain's experimentation with notes of heliotrope and violet. Affordable synthetics made this accord popular in mainstream perfumery. However, Guerlain's treatment, with anisic aldehyde, eugenol, and large doses of orris root, was considered exemplary by many, including perfumer Ernest Beaux.

The innovative creations of the legendary Guerlain family have changed the world of perfumery forever. Their fragrances have captured the essence of history, culture and emotion in a way that transcends time. Creator of some of the most iconic fragrances in the industry, Jacques Guerlain had an unparalleled ability to express his deepest feelings through his creations.

One of these perfumes was Le Parfum des Champs-Elysées, released on the eve of World War I. Its chocolatey floral notes served as a prophecy of the impending disaster that Guerlain sensed. He poured his intense emotions into this fragrance, creating a work of art that symbolized the era.

Released after the war, Mitsouko was the culmination of Jacques Guerlain's dedication to perfecting oakmoss and gamma-undecalactone. The perfume was inspired by his admiration for Japan, a country that had demonstrated its power during the Russo-Japanese War. Mitsouko became an iconic chypre that represented the new woman after the war, in contrast to the soft, amber floral of L'Heure Bleue that defined the pre-war era.

Jacques Guerlain's magnum opus, Shalimar , paid tribute to the Mughal gardens and became the essential oriental fragrance. The enchanting scent captured the imagination of people around the world and became a bestseller for decades.

Guerlain continued to push the boundaries of the industry with Djédi, Liú, Vol de Nuit, Sous le Vent and Coque d'Or. Each perfume was a masterpiece in its own right, showcasing Guerlain's wide range of skills and inspirations. From the austere and somber Djédi to the aldehydic floral Liú, Guerlain's creativity knew no bounds.

The Guerlain family legacy lives on as their fragrances continue to inspire and captivate fragrance enthusiasts around the world. Their ability to express complex emotions and historical events through scent is a testament to their incredible talent and dedication to the art of perfumery.

Jacques created several iconic fragrances that are still popular today, including Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Parfum, Champs Elysees Eau de Toilette, L'Heure Bleue Eau de Parfum, Mitsouko Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum, Apres l'Ondee, Vol de Nuit, Mitsouko Extract and Liu. His perfumes encompassed various themes and exotic scents, with a focus on the Orient, which he discovered during his travels to Asia. Jacques Guerlain's contributions to the perfume industry and the Guerlain family business were immeasurable, making him one of the most influential perfumers of his time.

Many of his major works are archived in their original form at the Osmothèque, donated by Thierry Wasser on behalf of Guerlain in 2014.

Web: guerlain.com